Mooses Tooth 

As a lead guide for San Juan Mountain Guides, I run my Denali National Park programs including the Mooses Tooth in conjunction with SJMG.

Ham and Eggs is ideal for those who have strong climbing backgrounds on both rock and ice and feel comfortable following steep ice while wearing a pack. This is a very long climb that requires a high level of physical fitness and a positive attitude. This is a 2:1 max ratio climb in order to maximize efficiency and increase our summit success rate.

An amazing alpine climb to the true summit of the Moose’s Tooth, via the route Ham and Eggs

This trip starts in Anchorage where we will shuttle to the quaint town of Talkeetna (A small drinking town with a climbing problem!). From here, we will take a short flight to the base of the route. These flights are usually one of the most exciting parts of the trip and offer incredible views of the Alaska Range including Denali and many other classic peaks. Once we land, we will establish a comfortable base camp and take time to enjoy the views.

Alaskan Alpine Climbing At Its Best!

We will spend the next several days reviewing skills and prep climbing in order to better prepare ourselves for the route ahead of us. With a positive route evaluation, we will rest in preparation for a very long summit climb. On summit night, we will begin our climb in the Alaskan twilight, moving over moderate snow with short steps of ice. After several thousand feet, the route steepens and we will climb several pitches of steep ice with the possibility of a short mixed move or two. As we near the top of the chute, the difficulty decreases until we arrive at the col on the ridge. Here we will have an opportunity for a short rest. The remainder of the climb involves several pitches of exposed traversing to the true summit of this elusive peak! Once we are ready for the descent, we will stay focused on the task ahead of us and rappel the route to our base camp where we can rest in awe of our amazing accomplishment!