Washington State

The North Cascades offers unparalleled alpine climbing. Many climbs begin with a forested approach only to lead to glacier crossings before even reaching the base of the routes. Although the North Cascades is a massive park I am offering several of my favorite climbs that I feel are truly the classic gems

FORBIDDEN PEAK

Via the East (up to 5.7 climbing) and West Ridge (up to 5.6 climbing) to the true summit.

Forbidden peak is ideal for those who have strong climbing backgrounds on both rock and snow and feel comfortable following steep terrain while wearing a pack. This is a very long climb that requires a high level of physical fitness and a positive attitude. This is a 2:1 max ratio climb in order to maximize efficiency and increase our summit success rate.

Due to forbidden peaks remoteness, I recommend doing this climb in Four days. If more or less training time is desired, the days can be adjusted.

MT. SHUKSAN

Via the Sulfide Glacier and Fisher Chimneys

Mt Shuksan is a beautiful alpine peak located near Mt. Baker in the North Cascades. For larger groups and for a learning experience, I recommend the Sulfide Glacier route. This offers a beautiful hike in thru lush forest into the alpine zone where we will camp beside or on the glacier. Here we can practice skills and later shoot for the summit on the moderate Sulfide Glacier followed by a fantastic rock scramble/ climb to the airy summit.

For those who desire a little more adventure, the Fisher Chimneys route offers a lot of action. This is a long climb that involves moderate rock and snow climbing, weaving in and out of glaciated terrain. The final stretch meets up with the standard Sulfide Glacier route and we will ascend the rock face via rock ledges and ridges to stand on the summit.